A Mexican courtyard with painted walls and deep shade
Oaxaca highlands, Sierra Norte. Photograph: Alex Azabache

Mexico · Table

Oaxaca highlands

Nine days between markets, kitchens, and the Sierra Norte, at the pace of a combi that waits.

9 daysGroup of 8From €3,420February and NovemberTable

We spend three nights in the city because the markets are not a backdrop. Then we go up to a Zapotec village that hosts walkers properly, with meals in a communal kitchen and paths that leave from the basketball court. Inês first came here for a map project and kept going back. This is the week she built from those years, not from a brochure.

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The days

Itinerary

  1. Day 01

    Oaxaca city

    Arrive. Evening in the zócalo without an itinerary.

  2. Day 02

    Markets

    Mercado Sánchez Pascuas first, not the one built for cameras. Lunch at a stall Inês has used for a decade.

  3. Day 03

    Cooking

    A morning with a cook in her house. Mole if the season is right; something quieter if it is not.

  4. Day 04

    Up to the sierra

    Combi and a last stretch on foot. Welcome meal with the host family network.

  5. Day 05

    Village to village

    A connecting path. Packed tortillas. A different roof at night.

  6. Day 06

    High loop

    Cloud forest if the weather holds. We turn back if it does not.

  7. Day 07

    Down to the city

    A slower return. Evening at a mezcalaría that still feels like a shop.

  8. Day 08

    Monte Albán, early

    Before the coaches. Afternoon free. Last supper together.

  9. Day 09

    Depart

    Airport runs from 06:00. We stagger them.

Included

  • Eight nights (city inn and village houses)
  • Breakfasts and six dinners, one cooking morning
  • Village hosting fees
  • Inês as host
  • Field booklet, including a market map she drew

Not included

  • Flights into Oaxaca
  • Most lunches
  • Personal shopping
  • Travel insurance

From €3,420 per person. Fitness: Altitude around 2,000 m. Walking days 8 to 14 km on dirt and cobble.

Along the way

Before you pack

  • 01

    Altitude is real. We do not rush day one.

  • 02

    Spanish helps and is not required. Inês translates.

  • 03

    November is for Day of the Dead only if you want the crowds; we usually go after.

Also this year

If this week is the one, write to the house.

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