Mount Fuji seen across water on a still morning
Nakasendo, Kiso Valley. Photograph: David Chen

Japan · Walking

Nakasendo, shoulder season

Ten days on the old inland road, Magome to the Kyoto basin, before the maples are a crowd.

10 daysGroup of 8From €5,120Late OctoberWalking

We walk sections of the Nakasendo when the post towns still have rooms and the cedar forests are quiet. Luggage goes by road. You walk with a daypack. Nights are in family inns that serve one dinner, at one time, and expect you to be on time. Callum has walked this road in three seasons; this departure is the one he prefers.

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The days

Itinerary

  1. Day 01

    Tokyo, evening only

    Arrive. One night near Tokyo Station. We eat nearby and sleep early.

  2. Day 02

    To Magome

    Shinkansen, then a local line. Afternoon acclimatising walk through the post town.

  3. Day 03

    Magome to Tsumago

    The classic stage, done slowly, with tea at the halfway house if it is open.

  4. Day 04

    Tsumago rest

    A short ridge walk or a morning in the temple. Luggage stays put.

  5. Day 05

    Nagiso to Kiso-Fukushima

    A working town, a proper bath, a dinner that is not performance.

  6. Day 06

    Narai

    The longest preserved street. We stay in a house that still has a noren on the door.

  7. Day 07

    Torii Pass

    Up and over. The view is not guaranteed. The forest is.

  8. Day 08

    To Kyoto

    Train afternoon. Evening in a neighbourhood inn, not a riverside hotel.

  9. Day 09

    Kyoto basin walk

    Fushimi to the quieter side of the Higashiyama if the crowds allow; otherwise the canal paths north.

  10. Day 10

    Depart

    Kansai or Tokyo connections. We stay with you until the station.

Included

  • Nine nights in inns and one city hotel
  • Breakfasts and eight dinners
  • Luggage transfers on walking days
  • Rail passes as required for the route
  • Bilingual walking host

Not included

  • Long-haul flights
  • Lunches
  • Onsen extras
  • Personal rail beyond the itinerary

From €5,120 per person. Fitness: Daily walking 10 to 16 km on stone, root, and tarmac. Some climbs.

Along the way

Before you pack

  • 01

    A light pack is enough. We move bags for you.

  • 02

    Tatami rooms. If stairs or futons are a problem, tell us before you book.

  • 03

    October rain is ordinary. Bring a serious shell.

Also this year

If this week is the one, write to the house.

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