Albania · Himarë to Porto Palermo
Albanian coast
The road before the season, when tavernas are still for the village.
May water is cold. The paths are old mule tracks. Rooms sit above family kitchens. This is not the Riviera of the posters, and that is why the week works. Tirana is a long transfer; we do not pretend otherwise.
May, before the coast fills. Summer is a different place.